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DENMARK 2005: Trip Report
 

 

Helsingor and Hamlet
 
 
  Next Koge


The first cycling trip was a day trip to Kronberg about 80km north of Copenhagen. We took our bikes on the train, it had special carriages for bikes. When the doors opened the running boards extended to bridge the gap to the platform. Inside the carriage inertia reel straps were provided to secure the bikes.

Buying tickets was straight forward. Danes accept that it is a small country with a fiendishly difficult language and don't expect you to learn Danish. All young people speak English, they learn it at school and most TV programs are in English. All public servants speak English.

Despite this, be aware that international credit cards are only recognized at places frequented by international tourists. They are accepted reluctantly at supermarkets in Copenhagen, but not at most other non-tourist outlets. In country areas only local Danish cards are accepted, for non residents it is strictly cash. There are plenty of ATM's so you can replenish your cash.

Kronberg castle is famous as the setting for Hamlet, but the story has no historical basis. In reality the castle was built to collect taxes from ships passing through the narrow straits between Denmark and Sweden.

The castle is an imposing, no-nonsense structure. The designers were clearly serious people with no illusions about the popularity of tax collectors.

The tour of the castle is nothing special, the rooms are sparsely furnished and there is little ornamentation, but the associated maritime museum has an incredible collection of model ships to make up for it.

We couldn't linger but cycled back to the town for lunch at the Lonely Planet recommended Radmand Davids Hus. The 'shopping lunch' was excellent and the service efficient, it was the first of the many Danish lunches we were to enjoy during the trip.

Denmark has a network of bicycle routes throughout the country. The paths are generally well marked, but are occasionally hard to find, particularly in built up areas. We followed route 9 back to Copenhagen. The path runs mainly along the railway track but for part of the way we found ourselves cycling along the busy coast road, I think we had missed the turnoff to the bicycle path, but drivers give cyclists a wide berth and patiently hang back until there is ample room to pass. There was not one incidence of aggressive or thoughtless driving throughout our three week trip.
  Next Koge, Feddet

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