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DENMARK
2005: Trip
Report |
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We spent
the day touring the western half of Mon arriving at
our accommodation fairly early. The apartment was rather
rough and ready, but clean with a nice old lady running
it.
Chatting to her we mentioned that we were planning
to take the ferry from Nyby to the island of Faster
the next day, she told us that it was summer service
only, and it finished that day. If we had packed up
and left we could have just made the last ferry but
we had already unpacked and were reluctant to change
our plans so we hoped she was mistaken, or there was
an alternative. The cycle tour guide book said nothing
about summer service.
When we got to the ferry landing we found the old
lady had been correct. We cycled to the bridge at
Faro but
it was a freeway with strictly no cycling.
A detour to avoid it would have added over fifty kilometers
on busy roads.
There was a bus stop near the freeway entrance but
we couldn't understand the Sunday timetable. After a
couple of hours a bus came along. We had heard that
buses were bicycle friendly but in fact there was little
room to store them. Luckily the storage locker was otherwise
empty and the driver did, rather begrudgingly, squeeze
them in. The bus took us to Vordingborg where there
was a bridge with a bicycle path. |
We arrived tired
and late at the accommodation. A stunning thatched
cottage, charming in every way.
The owners had retired from Copenhagen and renovated
the old farmhouse. It was the traditional construction
of heavy wooden beams with the spaces between the beams
in-filled with bricks, and a thatched roof. The owners
had taken it back to the beams and completely rebuilt
it.
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There
was nowhere to eat nearby, and with all the delays
and detours we hadn't been able to buy food. We asked
if we could get a taxi to a restaurant, but the hosts
insisted on organizing a neighbor to ferry us there
and pick us up after we had finished. It was a round
trip of about 30km, and the neighbor would only accept
'petrol money'.
We decided to have breakfast at the apartment. It
was superb, a table groaning with ham, cheese, breads,
jams; enough to keep us going for a
week. |
It was a long day
to Kappel it was hot and there was a strong headwind.
We had trouble finding the accommodation and went quite
a few kilometers out of our way.
When we eventually found the accommodation, it was
a large manor house in the middle of nowhere, deserted
apart from the owner.
It wasn't what we had been led to expect when we booked
it and the owner seemed rather sinister. We thought
about horror movies that started in
a similar way, so when he left we quickly repacked and
pedaled as fast as we could the 10km or so to the town
of Nakskov.
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It was late
and dark by that stage and the only option was a hotel.
This gave us our first experience of Danish hotels. It
was acceptable, but very expensive for what it was and
didn't have the facilities we would normally expect such
as a phone and coffee making equipment. |
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